July 09, 2007

Tejupilco (Mexico), 08.07.07


Map Navigation: This dynamic Trackmap shows the GPS track (red line) and some geo-referenced photos (red dots) of the cycling tour. Wheel up and wheel down your mouse to zoom in or zoom out the map. Click on any point in the map to center it on that point. Or just drag the map with your mouse. To see the photos, hoover the mouse over the red dots. Click on the photo to go to the picture page.


Photoset Map

Photoset Show

GPS Track: KMZ (Google Earth), or GPX (MapSource, et al).

GPS Cycling Data:






Distance: 188 Km, Total Ascent: 2,228 m, Total Descent: 3,068 m, Time: 8:16 hr, Avg. Speed: 22.4 Km/hr, Max Speed: 76.4 Km/hr, Energy Expended: 35.56 MJ, Power: 300 W.

Travel Report:

Upsss, I did it again ! Another cycling ride that starts at the early hour of 07:30 ! We are again back on the right track :-), although still an hour and half later than intended ...

This ride had the stated purpose of arriving at the San Miguel Ixtapa Archaeological Site, but as we will later discover, it proofed impossible to make the visit to the site on Sunday, and get back to Mexico City in the same day

I took Constituyentes Avenue (less than 5 km from home) in order to exit Mexico City and gain access to the free Toluca highway. This is an interesting ascent of 1,000 m up to the Tres Cruces summit (alt: 3,220 m) in 25 km (4 % grade), where I arrived at 09:20. From here comes a descent all the way to La Marquesa and Lerma, from where a gentle slope took me up to the state capital: Toluca.

I couldn't pay a visit to the Toluca center, as I took instead the highway to Temazcaltepec (Pacifico Avenue), in order to save time ... and started the second summit of the day: the ascent to Buenavista.

This road climbs up to a pass between La Calera and San Antonio mountains, reaching a higher altitude than Tres Cruces at 3,300 m. And the climbing is hard, as it is also a long way, from Toluca to the Buenavista summit. But the landscapes are superb ! You are riding near the Xinantecatl (Nevado de Toluca), an impressive broad volcano. As the sky was clear (owed to the previous night rainfall), the vistas of the volcano left me speechless. Man, it is great to ride early and have a clear sky ! I would recommend you a visit to these superb panoramic views at the Photoset Show link, above posted.

From this second summit, comes a slalom descent all the way down to Temazcaltepec (alt: 1,700 m). It is a 1,600 m descent in 45 km (3.5 % grade) ! Temazcaltepec is a picturesque town lost in the sierra, with beautiful roofs made of teja (red colored curved bricks) ... and weather more akin to tropical states like Tabasco or Guerrero. Really, once in Temazcaltepec, you could feel the hot and humidity that is usually found in southern Mexican states, but alas ! I had not get out still of the Mexico state :-) I could even say that the people also started to resemble more akin to the tropical towns in Mexico, meaning with that that they were becoming friendlier and happier than its northern neighbours. Needless to say, Temazcaltepec has no problem at all with water: they have lots of it.

From Temazcaltepec to Tejupilco the road is a sierra-crosser, as I had to climb two summits more, albeit less higher. The highway between this two towns is in pristine conditions. I imagine it has just been re-pavemented, or it is being expanded to a 4-lane highway. Besides, the vistas along the highway are wonderful: you can admire the magnificence of the sierra that was just being crossed. Lots of vegetation, hills, mountains, and a beautiful silence.

Once I crossed those small summits, a descent comes, which enabled me to arrive at Tejupilco at 16:00. Tejupilco is a beautiful town like no other one. Its Cathedral, Main Square, Market and Municipal Palace are so loaded with tradition, that you could swear you were standing in a town of a century ago. It looks so old, yet in a very sustained condition, that it gives the illusion of being aboard a time machine. I loved this town ! I roamed a bit around the Main Square, just admiring the beauty and tradition of its main buildings. What I liked most was its Cathedral, all in white painted, and located at the top of what appeared to me as a hill. It is accessed by stairs. The whole Main Square of Tejupilco made me ask myself if, by any chance, Macondo (the eternal town in One Hundred Years of Solitude) would be a lot different from what I had in front of my eyes. I was waiting (just half-hearted) to see appearing from the corner to Jose Arcadio Buendía :-)

But the show must go on, and I had to take a decision whether continuing or not the trip to San Miguel Ixtapa. Problem was: the archaeological site had closed 1 hour ago (really, that site closes at 15:00 on Sundays !), and there were no buses taking me back from Ixtapa to Tejupilco (being it a 400 m ascent), and the last bus to Mexico City departed at 19:00. If I went to Ixtapa, just to know the town, I would not be able to climb the last ascent back and be in Tejupilco before the last bus to Mexico City departed. So I decided not to go to Ixtapa, leaving that visit to the next occasion I come to Tejupilco. Instead I choosed to roam around town, visiting for example the road to La Estancia Ixtapa, just before the descent road to San Miguel. I also looked for the house were Miguel Hidalgo, the founding father of Mexico, was born, but up to my dismay, not even the police was able to tell me were in hell the house was located !

At 19:00 I reached the bus central, and tried to take the bus, but ... the bus had no big luggage boxes, and I was not able to load my bicycle. I had to wait for the next bus (that came from Altamirano City, Guerrero, at 19:30, fare: 80 pesos) in front of the Church, but again, no big luggage boxes. But this time I was in no mood for waiting for the next (if any) bus, so I had to take off the frontal wheel and ... voila, here we go in the bus :-)

The return bus trip back home took nearly 4 hours, arriving at Observatorio Terminal at 23:00. A short subway trip and I was finally back at home's safety.

Final thougths: Tejupilco represents the first leg of a three day cycling touring from Mexico City to the coastal fishing town of Zihuatanejo, Guerrero (old nahua Cihuatlan: Place of Women), target of a cycling ride that I have already in mind. The second leg is Altamirano City, in the southern state of Guerrero. So, simply stated, stay tuned ... :-)

Thank you for reading. Till the next travel.

July 02, 2007

Tula Archaeological Site (Hidalgo). 01.07.07




Photoset Map

Photoset Show

GPS Track: KMZ (Google Earth), or GPX (MapSource, et al).

GPS Cycling Data:






Distance: 152 Km, Total Ascent: 975 m, Time: 7:23 hr, Avg. Speed: 20.5 Km/hr, Max Speed: 51.8 Km/hr, Energy Expended: 31.51 MJ, Power: 300 W.

Travel Report:

Cycling from the center of Mexico City, I reached the center of Tlalnepantla at 08:20, rendezvous point with the fellow cyclist: Michaela Lochova, a determined touring cyclist from the Chezc Republic. Let me state that she was able to cycle the whole round trip, from Mexico City to the toltec Tula Archaeological Site (and back to Mexico City), without stating a single complaint, fierce desert sun and dilluvial rain notwhistanding.

We took the road to Cuautitlan, via the free highway, since It had been previously agreed to use as few high traffic highways as possible. We continued up to the Tepotzotlan deviation, but we took instead the road to Coyotepec, a beautiful town which I had always passed by the paid highway to Queretaro, without having entering in it once. I had now the opportunity to know its beautiful Cathedral and Convent, so we made a little stop at that location.

In order to arrive at Jorobas, we took a secondary road that circles the hill after Coyotepec. The road conditions were one of the worst I had ever seen. In fact, this road was closed to the traffic, as it was under maintenance. Some parts of this road had no asphalted carpet at all, as it had been removed to put another, I guess. So the floor of this road was sometimes plain ground. And as the previous night had been one of thundering storm, you can imagine the quantity of mud that covered this road.

Well, it was in this road that I broke my Dura-Ace chain ... just at our arrival at Jorobas. At least I broke it in a town ! Unfortunately, the only mechanic that was in town was an automotive one, and he was unable to fix the chain, as he lacked the right tools for the job. From here we weighted our choices, and decided to take a bus to Tula (via Tepeji del Rio), where I hoped I could find some bicycle mechanic.

At the arrival at Tula, and aided by the directions given by a fellow cyclist, in 5 minutes I had found a cycling repair shop, and in less than 3 minutes, my chain was fixed. Alas ! The wonders of civilization ! From here we could continue cycling to the nearby Tula Achaeological Site, arriving at the site at 12:45.

The site is really impressive. It houses several buildings: three pyramids, a whole palace, an immense ball game court, a tzomplantli (skulls wall) and also: two museums ! I think that the best way to describe you the site is to show you the photos I obtained there. You can have a look at them in the photoset show link posted above.

We roamed through the complete site. Some of the visited buildings were: the Burned Palace, Pyramids B and C, Ball Game Court, and of course, both museums. Of particular interest were the two museums of the site. Each one of these houses an impressive collection of
archaeological findings. Stone sculptures representing Chaac-Mol and Tlaloc (rain gods), atlantes (toltec warriors), reliefs, ceremonial pottery, stone stellaes, ceremonial flag carriers, etc.

Once the visit to the site was concluded, we started cycling the return leg of our journey. It was 15:00, and the sun was at its hottest point. At the exit of Tula we bought water bottles, as in front of us rested 40 km of desert, as we had decided to take the Refinery road, which drives back to Jorobas, crossing mountains in the midst of the desert, with barely a town along its route.

The desert has always been something that fascinates me. Its profound silence, its climatic hardness, its endless landscapes. I think I have started to love the desert, having previously disliked it a lot. But sometimes I believe to find poetry in its hardships.

At our arrival back at Jorobas we took a rest there, and enjoyed the town's speciality: ram barbecue. Not being great fans of eating lots of meat (neither Michaela or me), but being it the only available food in town, I think we could learn to appreciate the dish :-)

Resuming the ride, we took the paid highway to Mexico City (in order to save time), and branched out of it at Cuautitlán, where we paid a visit to its beautiful Cathedral and Convent. Taking the free highway to Mexico from there, we rode to Tlalnepantla, but at La Quebrada, the sky started to fall in pieces. What a rain, man ! And, worst of it: it didn't stop raining the whole night. From La Quebrada to Satellite City, we cycled an hour under a fierce rain. Well, it had rained so much that water was felling down from the elevated bridges along the route, fabricating occasional immense urban waterfalls, some of them felling above us.

Michaela and I parted ways in Satellite City, from where I resumed my way back home with a 50 min, 20 km long ride to Mexico City center under a dilluvial rain, arriving back at the safety of home at 20:45. All I can say is that this ride, performed under inclement weather conditions (heat and rain) was one of those rides that makes you remember why you are a cyclist: to challenge the elements ! :-)

Thank you for reading. Till the next travel.

June 27, 2007

Tula Archaeological Site (Hidalgo), 24.06.07

Map Navigation: This dynamic Trackmap shows the GPS track (red line) and some geo-referenced photos (red dots) of the cycling tour. Wheel up and wheel down your mouse to zoom in or zoom out the map. Click on any point in the map to center it on that point. Or just drag the map with your mouse. To see the photos, hoover the mouse over the red dots. Click on the photo to go to the picture page.



Photoset Map

Photoset Show

GPS Track: KMZ (Google Earth), or GPX (MapSource, et al).

GPS Cycling Data:






Distance: 193 Km, Total Ascent: 1100 m, Cycling Time: 8:02 hr, Avg. Speed: 24 Km/hr, Max Speed: 57.1 Km/hr, Energy Expended: 36 MJ, Cycling Power: 311 W.

Travel Report:

Owed to the fact that on the previous day I had to attend a late-night compromise, this ride started at the insane late hour of 12:00 !

I had decided for this ride to the
Tula Archaeological Site, not to take the paid highway to Querétaro (as I had taken a lot of times this highway), riding instead by the old (and free) highway. Starting from Mexico City center, I rode towards Tlalnepantla, Cuautitlán, Teoloyucan, Huehuetoca, and Jorobas.

From Jorobas, I had to take a choice between 2 different paths: the paid highway (that I had used a lot of times), or the free road passing by the Tula Refinery. I choosed the last one, always wanting to know something new. But the road conditions were less than ideal. The asphalt carpet is eroded and full of holes, caused by the big trucks that roam freely on this highway.

The landscapes along the Refinery road are speechless ! Full desert ! I seldom ride on the northern side of Mexico City, but each time I do it, I always feel struck by the incredible vistas along the desert ! Accustomed as I am to the humid landscapes of the south and east part of my country, being in in the northern deserts resembles me like travelling in an entire different planet !

Unfortunately, my camera stopped working in Huehuetoca, since I was carrying it in the handlebar bag (lots of vibration), so I am not able to offer you a glimpse of those beautiful desert vistas.

Following the road ahead, after good 100 km, I could finally arrive at the Tula Archaeological Site, just 15 minutes later than last allowed entrance time (17:00). So, after crossing some words with the guard, I cycled my way back to Mexico City, arriving past 22:00 hr, under full night cover.

I hope to remake this travel next week, but departing now at 07:00, so I could finally enter at the beautiful Tula archaeological site. And now, with a working photo camera !

Thank you for reading. Till the next travel.